WHY CULINARY ARTS?

It takes no journey far and wide to find the best cooks and chefs in the world. Many of them are Filipinos. And no amount of modesty can hide that fact, as the record demand for Filipino deployment in the finest restaurants and hotels the world over swells each year.

"Ipsissima verba" in Latin; and in English "it is what is said" that proves the worth of Pinoy talent in world-class kitchens from luxury cruises to royal mansions; from Cataluna's famed restaurant strip to the White House kitchen -- workshop of President Bush's favorite chef, Fil-Am Cristeta Comeford.

For aspiring toque-topped apprentices, where does the journey begin? Many times it starts with reveling at mom's kitchen. But the science, art and discipline of it all is in culinary school. One can count 10 top culinary arts schools in Metro Manila. But the cost to be schooled is a fortune, sometimes – without exaggeration, even the cost of a Fortuner (Toyota's luxury SUV). Tuition can range anywhere between P200,000 and P800,000! And on top of that, the training cost entails thousands of spending on choice ingredients during cooking sessions. Government has taken cognizance of the demand for chefs in Australia, Macau, Maldives, and Europe. Add to this rich job market, cruise ships that wag a salary of as high as US$5,000 a month. Not bad, eh? "Not bad, indeed," gleams Undersecretary Roger Peyuan, director-general of the Technical Education and Skills Development

Authority (TESDA), who gave MB's Youth Section a tour of the agency's answer to high-cost culinary arts education through its training institute established at the TESDA Compound in Taguig.

THE BIRTH OF CATFABS

Known as CATFABS, the Center for Advanced Training in Food and Beverage Services is a brainchild of a small group of chefs who have been pillars and significant influences in various hotels and restaurants. Founded by Chef Bert Francisco, the goal of CATFABS is to uplift the culinary profession in the country, and with the help of government, it has found its home in TESDA.

"It was a great opportunity for our group to align our goals with that of government policy as represented by TESDA," says Francisco. "We wanted a curriculum for chefs that is tailored-fit for the demands and expectations of kitchens of the establishments that we have here."

As such, the establishment of CATFABS is a marriage of two missions -- that of food service industry leaders to produce efficient culinary arts graduates who can work the kitchen like Ratatouille; and that of TESDA to provide affordable training and education to those most needing a good source of living.

In September 2003, this partnership to uplift the culinary profession in the country became official and updated training programs were offered at TESDA's backyard. Five strongly-competitive programs were set in place: Culinary Arts, Advanced Culinary Arts, Comprehensive Commercial Baking, Beverage Service, and Food Service. The courses are run by a pool of certified instructors at the 200 square meter facility housing a kitchen, bar, dining room, lecture room and offices.

Each course is subsidized, lowering the cost of the 10-day training program to an average of P5,000 each, inclusive of cooking ingredients. Through several batches a year over the last five years, CATFABS has since maintained an aggressive thrust to build up the training modules in culinary art, science and the food service profession.

For its part, TESDA continuously evaluates and upgrades the facilities and training methods to be at par with the global trends in the culinary profession. "Because of our strong training program, CATFABS serves as the mouthpiece of culinary practitioners. It also acts as the springboard for those who are determined to extract their talents in culinary arts as a sturdy source of living," says Francisco.

THE CATFABS 3-WAY TEST

Values in education and practice are high priority in CATFABS campus culture. Francisco, along with on-hands training chefs, make sure that every product of the school becomes a reflection of the top quality training they receive.

The mark of a CATFABS graduate, he says, is "a skilled, knowledgeable and values-oriented" worker. But the true test would have to be seen in what they bring to the table. Ms. Ana Alonzo, one of the Culinary Arts graduates, could not have echoed Chef Bert's constant preachings: "Dapat ang dishes na sine-serve namin mag-pass doon sa three-way test. First, it should be healthy and clean; second, it should be delectable as in masarap siya; and third, it should be affordable cuisine. Hindi lang kasi mayayaman o yung mga kumakain sa hotel ang dapat nakaka-appreciate ng fine dining or cuisine."

"Yan ang general principle na gusto naming dalhin nila paglabas nila rito sa CATFABS. In here, we teach them how to find their own food. Out there, they should utilize their own culinary talents to gain employment and establish their own food enterprise. But still, the quality of the food they serve must be clean and healthy, delectable and affordable," adds Chef Francisco.

THE CHEF’S LABORATORY

Watching a typical day at the CATFABS kitchen unfold, one would be impressed with the interest and anticipation filling the work area. Lab Chef Roger Sumalpong, an AB English graduate and former sales executive, begins his class with an attack on technique -- the proper knives and utensils to use; choice and preparation of ingredients; and the dos and donts in a professionally managed workplace.

Then, the demonstration begins. Like performance art before a revved up crowd, he puts on a show with clinical precision -- from the part where vegetables and meat are diced and sliced to the point when the stoves are fired up and the simmering sauces all but overtakes the senses.

Awe fills the room then a sudden shift in atmosphere takes place. A challenge is borne out of a teacher's brilliance that students are now called upon to duplicate his feat. A strong air of interdependence is felt as students work together in groups to produce their own palatable masterpiece. Here a cohesive, competitive spirit comes alive.

"We provide them the knowledge. The skill is for the students to develop. That's the beauty of on-hands training," says another lab chef, Toti Francisco. The training in each lab kitchen is pretty much the same where chef-trainors give a personalized touch to education. Here, each aspiring chef has his and her strengths and weaknesses that need to be harnessed.

Some are naturally talented in slicing up veggies and meats in delectably bite-sized pieces. Others perfect the taste while others are good with food color presentation and appeal. Ultimately, the goal is for students to develop a sense of discipline in the kitchen; learn from each others' strengths and find guidance in chefs with 5-star culinary experience.

WHAT’S COOKING?

A full course meal is the challenge in each cooking session. During our tour, the menu at the CATFABS lab kitchen consisted of squash soup and two entrees -- chicken with herbs sauce, and grilled beef tenderloin maitre d'hotel. In the pastry kitchen, a separate group labors on their fondu cake masterpieces.

Busy bodies working in groups of threes prepare the ingredients, economically distributed among them. The challenge is to cook up the meal, achieving full taste and an appearance appealing to the eyes. For taste, the maitre d'hotel sauce, for example, is crucial. A sauce of melted butter, chopped, parsley, lemon juice, salt and pepper is the secret to this entrees of excellence. Garnishings and the manner by which the trainees decide to cut them and mix-match their colors in the plate would be the key to drawing the desired effect on a grumbling stomach.

Throughout the hour-long toiling, the lab chef goes around teaching technique and scrutinizing each action for entrees made to excellence.

BRINGING HOME THE BACON

With all of CATFABS’ claims of being an instrument in educating and empowering its students as top-notch food service professionals, many would beg to ask what’s the proof to that. As they say, “the proof of the pudding is in the eating.”

And CATFABS graduates and trainees have had their equal share of the limelight in the grandest food expositions ever staged in Manila in recent years. CATFABS graduates were featured in the World Food Expo 2008 last August 6-9, where the prestigious Hotel and Restaurant Chefs Association of the Philippines booth became the major draw. Four of 16 or one-fourth of the Chefs from hotels and restaurants nationwide who had the privilege of demonstrating their skills at centerstage were CATFABS graduates.

In the previous year, six out of the 13 demonstration chefs that hugged the limelight at the WOFEX 2007 at World Trade Center were also CATFABS graduates. "We pride ourselves with our graduates who can perform with the best. WE have never shied away from these international food exhibitions because we are confident that our graduates have the knowledge, skills and discipline to cook side-by-side with world class chefs," says Chef Bert Francisco.

The CATFABS program also prides itself with being a recipient of the Kabalikat Award for 2007 from TESDA, representing the National Capital Region.

"It was a well-deserved KABALIKAT Award for CATFABS. Kabalikat is one of TESDA’s ways of recognizing and honoring partners like our very own Chef Bert Francisco who unselfishly and willingly gave his continuous support in enhancing the CATFABS programs." says Usec. Peyuan

BEYOND CATFABS

Thru Chef Bert’s advocacy, CATFABS has always been looking after the welfare of abled bodies willing to learn and develop a skill that's in demand, particularly in the tourism sector. "I've always wanted to help our fellowmen who are unemployed, out-of-school youths, potential entrepreneurs, and existing Food and Beverage workers in need of developing their skills, to become more productive and be able to find ways in earning a living," says Francisco.

And so beyond CATFABS, Fandcisco, together with the graduates of CATFABS recently formed a multi-purpose cooperative named Culinary Arts Food Provider Experts or CAPFE aimed to assist the graduates to be employed. Their first pet project was the establishment of a food outlet named Chef Bert and Co. Cuisine. It was initially opened and inaugurated on May 20, 2008 at the food court in Cartimar, Pasay City. The food outlet that serves hotel quality dishes at affordable fastfood prices is headed by Chef Jewel C. Cruz, one of the CATFABS graudates. Under him is a staff of CATFABS job trainees who in the future, venture into their own business or find greener pastures abroad. Their success stories are posted on the CATFABS website.

To date, CAPFE already has 100 members, all graduates of the CATFABS Culinary Arts course. "I am seeing my dream unfold. Ultimately, I believe that as they (students) develop the value of self-reliance, these students would be responsible individuals using their newly-acquired skills for the betterment of their their family, their community and the whole country," says Francisco.

NATE C. BARRETTO / MANILA BULLETIN